A live-action prequel to the classic “101 Dalmatians”, “Cruella” was one of the most anticipated films of 2021. And the least we can say is that the film did not disappoint, especially in the area of costumes.
cruella : genesis of a villain
When the first trailer for cruella went out, many drew a comparison with the film at Joker. Indeed, whether it is its atmosphere, its music and its concept (to portray a famous villain), the film seemed to have some similarities with the feature film directed by Todd Phillips.
Like Joker, the film directed by Craig Gillespie was also a critical and commercial success. In effect, cruella received a lot of positive feedback, including for its direction, art direction, soundtrack, and stunning performances from Emma Stone and Emma Thompson. In addition to the $233.5 million in revenue collected, the film received several awards and 2 Oscar nominations, for a statuette obtained.
cruella therefore follows the youth of the latter when she was called Estella at that time and had the ambition to become a fashion reference. His creations then catch the eye of the terrible Baroness von Hellman, a great fashion figure who seems to have a link with the death of his mother.
A very sharp design of the costumes
Who says cruella obviously says great care taken with the costumes. For this, the production has engaged the services of costume designer Jenny Beavan. The latter is, in fact, a figure acclaimed by the community sinceshe received several Oscar nominations, and obtained two statuettes for movies Room with a view and Mad Max: Fury Road.
During an interview for voguethe British septuagenarian returned to her work in cruella. Thus, while the film takes place in the 70s in London, the costume designer was inspired by her own youth during that time. Indeed, at this time, Beavan obtained clothes in thrift stores. So she used her memories and traveled to various flea markets in London and New York.
Regarding the gala dress that caused a sensation in the film, since it caught fire, the costume designer also returns to the ideas that may have prompted her to compose this garment:
There are flammable threads and fabrics that catch fire without killing the actor or actress wearing them, but we used special effects (…) The dress is inspired by Charles James’ ‘Tree’ dress . Costume designer Ian Wallace, who is a genius, thought it was daring. It’s a bit far-fetched, but you can believe there’s enough fabric on the original dress to make this new dress.
During this same interview, Jenny Beavan also discusses the look of the Baroness which shows several influences from the middle of 50s and 60s fashion. This offered a certain contrast with the much more modern outfits of cruella.
His work on cruella was also awarded a third Oscar.
What did the actresses think?
In cruella, the characters interpreted respectively by Emma Stone and Emma Thompson go blow for blow from the point of view of clothing. And for the two actresses, not everything was easy to bear, as revealed in a featurette of the film.
So, in this 3 minute video, Emma Stone returns to the particular manufacture of the mask that she wears, in addition to the famous dress that caught fire. Indeed, it took several hours of make-up to create this work composed of crystals and feathers.
As for Emma Thompson, in addition to avoiding eating when she had to wear certain corsets, she had to wear a very heavy wig to accompany one of her outfits. Not to mention that he had to turn a glass of champagne in one hand and the leashes of three dalmatians in the other.
In this featurette, however, Emma Stone revealed her favorite outfit: the trash dress that Cruella is wearing to thumb her nose at the Baroness again:
The skirt is incredibly long. It wasn’t attached to the dress, because I couldn’t walk or sit in a car or do anything with it all on. (…) It was really special and I was incredibly excited to wear it. They worked on it for so long.
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Cruella: why costumes were a problem for Emma Stone and Emma Thompson? – CineSeries